Paphos and Larnaca in one place: how the divided island works in practice, why there is no railway, and the one month you can plausibly ski and swim on the same day.
The things that change a decision — not a retelling of the guidebook.
The Republic of Cyprus controls the south; the north is under Turkish Cypriot administration. Crossings are open, the easiest being on foot at Ledra Street in Nicosia, and you need a passport. Hire car insurance frequently does not cover the north — check before driving across.
Everything moves by road. Buses between towns are cheap and slow; most visitors hire a car or take tours. Driving is on the left, a legacy of British administration, which catches out arrivals from mainland Europe.
The Roman villa floors in the archaeological park are among the finest in the Mediterranean and the site is open, flat and unshaded. Go early, take water, and treat a July midday visit as a bad idea rather than a brave one.
The mountains hold snow from January to March and there are a handful of lifts on Mount Olympus. Skiing in the morning and swimming in the afternoon is an actual February possibility here, and about ninety minutes of driving apart.
The sea is comfortable from April into November, which is longer than anywhere else in the Mediterranean basin. Inland summer temperatures regularly pass forty degrees, so the coast is where the summer is bearable.
It rarely falls on the same date as western Easter, and it is the biggest holiday of the year: villages fill, restaurants are booked and some sites close on the day itself. Kataklysmos in June is the other big one, celebrated on the seafront.
What is open, how busy it gets, and when to book ahead.