Sarajevo and Mostar in one place: how most visitors arrive, what the recent history means for the tours on offer, and why this is the cheapest stop on a Balkan trip.
The things that change a decision — not a retelling of the guidebook.
About three hours from Dubrovnik or Split, with a border crossing in each direction. It works, and it is how the great majority of visitors see the town. Staying a night gets you the bridge without the coaches, which is a different place entirely.
The sixteenth-century original was destroyed in 1993 and rebuilt with the same stone and methods, reopening in 2004. The divers who jump from it are a centuries-old local club, not a tourist act — though they will ask for a contribution first.
The Tunnel of Hope, the siege museums and the walking tours are often led by people who lived through the 1992–95 siege. It is frank and sometimes hard going, and it is the single most worthwhile thing to do in the city.
The bobsleigh track on Mount Trebević is abandoned, covered in graffiti and reachable by a rebuilt cable car from the city centre. The Sarajevo Film Festival in August is the other date that fills the city.
Euros are accepted in many tourist places, but change comes back in marks at a rate that is rarely in your favour. Cash matters more than in the EU, and cards are patchy outside the two cities.
Ćevapi with bread and onion is the national dish and costs a few euros anywhere. Sarajevo’s old bazaar is full of it, and the coffee culture — served Ottoman-style with a copper pot — is a genuine reason to sit down.
What is open, how busy it gets, and when to book ahead.