Tirana, Saranda and Vlore in one place: how people actually arrive on this coast, why the roads take longer than the map says, and which season the Riviera is open for.
The things that change a decision — not a retelling of the guidebook.
The ferry crossing takes around thirty minutes, and a large share of visitors to southern Albania arrive that way for a day or two rather than flying in. Butrint, the best Roman site in the country, is twenty minutes from the Saranda port.
Tirana to Saranda is around five hours despite looking short on a map — the coast road climbs and winds through the Llogara pass. Build travel days in properly, and prefer the organised transfer to a tight self-drive schedule.
Berat and Gjirokastër are both UNESCO-listed and both look like nothing else in the Balkans — stone towns stacked up a hillside. Neither is on the coast road, so they need a car or a dedicated tour.
Around a hundred and seventy thousand concrete bunkers were built under Hoxha and most are still standing in fields and on beaches. Two of the largest in Tirana have been turned into the Bunk’Art museums, which are the best introduction to the period.
Outside it, many beach hotels, restaurants and boat operators on the southern coast simply close. Tirana works all year; the coast in April is beautiful and largely shut.
The currency is the lek and card acceptance thins out quickly outside Tirana and the main resorts. Prices are often quoted in euros in tourist areas and paid in lek at a poor rate — draw local cash.
What is open, how busy it gets, and when to book ahead.