Tbilisi and Kutaisi in one place: the wine tradition that predates everyone else’s, the mountain road that makes the country’s best day trip, and how long you can stay without a visa.
The things that change a decision — not a retelling of the guidebook.
Georgia has the oldest continuous winemaking tradition known, fermented in buried clay qvevri — a method on the UNESCO intangible heritage list. Kakheti, an hour and a half east of Tbilisi, is where the wineries are and the standard full-day trip goes.
Three hours north of Tbilisi up the Georgian Military Highway to Stepantsminda, with the Gergeti Trinity church on a ridge beneath a 5,000-metre peak. It is the country’s signature image and a long but entirely doable day.
Tusheti is reached by one of the most dangerous roads in the world and is open roughly June to September. Parts of Svaneti are accessible longer but the passes still close. Anything above the main valleys needs a summer date.
Citizens of around a hundred countries can stay for 365 days without a visa, which is unusually generous and is why Tbilisi has a large long-stay community. The lari goes a long way: food, guiding and accommodation are all inexpensive.
A Georgian feast is run by a tamada, a toastmaster, and the toasts are structured, lengthy and not optional. Portions are enormous. If you are invited to one, arrive hungry and pace yourself on the wine — refusing a toast is the awkward move.
Georgian script is unrelated to Latin or Cyrillic and looks like nothing else. Tbilisi transliterates most signage; outside the capital much less of it does. Russian remains widely understood by older generations, English by younger ones.
What is open, how busy it gets, and when to book ahead.