After a stressful time, we needed to go somewhere relatively close, from our local airport - Bournemouth - and spend a peaceful time in beautiful countryside, mountains and sea. We remembered a trip way back to Majorca, taking the little train to Soller, missing the return and getting back to Palma on a local bus via Valdemossa, looking down on the orange trees in the Soller valley. (In a damp February gloom, but even then magical) Too tired to follow my usual habit of researching it all myself, I found Henrik of Rural Hotels Mallorca who was most helpful in organising 4 days in Port de Pollensa and 6 days in the mountains in the mountain village of Fornalutx. My choices from a list Henrik provided were the Hoposa Bahia in Port de Pollensa and the boutique hotel of Can Verdera in Fornalutx. Both are for adults only, thus helping the "peaceful" requirement. Not against children: been there, done that! The Hoposa Bahia - there is more than one Bahia hotel in Port de Pollensa - is a small hotel, formerly large house, right on the beach. The road outside is pedestrian only apart from a few service vehicles, so you go down for breakfast, cross this narrow road, find a table within a few metres of the sea and then look out at a calm sea lapping the shore for a few moments before going back and choosing from one of the most extensive buffets I have come across. The fresh fruit and small pastries are difficult to resist but there is the full range including cooked breakfasts. Whilst we were there the sea was always calm in the morning, it got slightly more active later in the day but it is quite shallow, so no angry waves. Winter may be different. For lunch we ate in one of the many cafes and restaurants nearby and ate our main meal generally at the hotel, meaning their meals were really good. Staff were very friendly and helpful, our room was at the back, no sea view, but covered all our needs. The hotel is on the pine walk stretch of the bay, which is beautiful. The trees take all sorts of shapes and there are enough seats to relax in and take in the whole vista of a wonderful bay. We didn't hire a car and took the bus to old Alcudia to go round the ancient town on the only dull day we had. Can Verdera is composed of a few old houses in the still unspoilt village which have been beautifully restored to create a very small - about 10 rooms? - hotel and wellness centre. No lift, but shallow stepped stairs. We were on the 2nd floor, 42 steps, but manageable in our mid-80s with the usual old age infirmities. (Fornalutx of course is full of steps anyway) The garden is tiered, as you would expect in the mountains, and wonderfully landscaped, with pool, many really comfortable loungers of various types and a restaurant at the top, not owned by the hotel. The breakfast, which was delicious, is not included, there being a choice and indications - not explored - that other requests may be met. The staff were all very friendly and helpful and you get to know them very quickly. Breakfast can be taken in more than one place, but we usually sat outside in a cool courtyard by a fish pond. Our room did not look out on the mountains - you have all day to do that, watching how the mountains change as the sun highlights different aspects - but there was a lovely view of a house across the narrow street with a lovely bougainvillea and, in fact, a glimpse of the mountains. I can only describe the room - and the rest of the hotel - as exquisite. More than a touch of luxury but run in an ethical context. Having 6 nights we were a little more active, taking the hourly mini-bus to Port de Soller for a boat trip to Sa Calobra and walking some way into the Torrent de Pareis. Wonderful craggy coastline and hot, almost desert conditions in the gorge. We also took the bus to Deia, another picturesque mountain village and quite spectacular route. The buses are modern, with tap on tap off debit card payment and next stop displays etc. Inexpensive too. Much less stressful than driving round the mountains, although I missed being able to have photo stops. Altogether a very restorative trip, hot enough, not yet over crowded with fellow tourists. One last comment, unfortunately negative, but not unique to this area. The woman we bought boat tickets from fortunately warned us about pickpockets, very well indeed in terms of tactics, so when 2 men tried - in Fornalutx - to rob us, our instincts were already primed and they failed. It is a universal issue, but it is better to be aware. Don't let it put you off seeing a part of the world which is so very different from the old view of Majorca of packed southern beaches and large hotels.









