Riyadh and Jeddah in one place: how recently tourism opened at all, which cities remain closed to non-Muslims, and what AlUla requires.
The things that change a decision — not a retelling of the guidebook.
Before that there was effectively no leisure travel to the country. The e-visa is now straightforward for many nationalities and issued online. Because the change is recent, a lot of the advice you will find elsewhere describes a country that no longer exists.
The restriction is legal, signposted on the approach roads and enforced at checkpoints. Jeddah, an hour from Mecca, is open to everyone and is where the historic Al-Balad district and the Red Sea diving are.
The Nabataean site at AlUla was carved by the same civilisation and is a UNESCO world heritage site with a fraction of the visitors. Access is by booked guided tour only, through the official AlUla system, and it is a two-hour flight from Riyadh.
Foreign women are no longer required to wear an abaya, though modest dress covering shoulders and knees is expected. Alcohol remains illegal throughout the country. Prayer times still close many shops for twenty to thirty minutes, several times a day.
Over 45°C from June to September, dry rather than humid, with nothing outdoors realistically possible in the middle of the day. November to March is the season, and desert nights in winter get genuinely cold.
Friday is the holy day and the working week runs Sunday to Thursday. Museums and attractions often open late on Fridays. Ramadan changes hours substantially across the whole country.
What is open, how busy it gets, and when to book ahead.