Muscat and Salalah in one place: the monsoon that turns a desert green, when the Grand Mosque admits visitors, and why self-driving works here.
The things that change a decision — not a retelling of the guidebook.
From June to September a monsoon reaches the southern Dhofar region and the hills go green with waterfalls and mist — in Arabia, in high summer. It is the biggest domestic tourism season in the country and it is unlike anything else in the Gulf.
The Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque in Muscat opens to visitors on weekday mornings only, with a firm dress code: ankles, wrists and hair covered for women, long trousers for men. The carpet and the chandelier alone justify the early start.
The main roads are excellent and the traffic is light, so a hire car is the standard way to see the north. The wadis and the mountain roads up Jebel Shams and Jebel Akhdar require four-wheel drive, and it is checked at some access points.
The walk in is easy; reaching the cave and its waterfall at the end means swimming through several pools with your belongings in a dry bag. It is the country’s most-loved day out and people regularly turn up unprepared for that last part.
Modest dress away from hotel beaches — shoulders and knees covered — is expected and that is broadly it. Oman is among the safest countries in the region for visitors and has a reputation for courtesy that holds up in practice.
Green turtles come ashore every night of the year on the east coast, peaking from June to September. Visits are guided only, in small groups, with red light and no flash — the restrictions are why the site still works.
What is open, how busy it gets, and when to book ahead.