Calabria eats loudly: the sweet Tropea red onion, IGP-protected and turned into jam, gelato and everything in between; 'nduja, the spreadable chilli salami from Spilinga fifteen kilometres inland; pecorino del Monte Poro; and the tartufo of Pizzo, a chocolate ice-cream ball with a molten heart. Cooking classes with a local nonna teach the pasta that carries all of it.
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