ñitaxalda vandfald 1 dag

There is one reason I came to Tayrona National Park, and that was to visit the indigenous regions. I’d seen the two documentaries by Alan Ereira on the Kogi people (the first one from the 70s), and I wanted to come to where the world began. It took me a while to find Tierra Nativa, even though they have a good website: www.tierranativacolombia.com. After some conversations with Juan David via WhatsApp, I settled on the trip to Ñitaxalda Waterfall. I'm not usually a waterfall person, but for some reason, this one called to me. I was a bit surprised at how far east the hike was (I thought most trails were closer to Calabazo), but I decided to go with it—and I’m glad I did. First of all, I ended up staying at Ecolodge El Ebenezer, which was incredible. Secondly, even though the itinerary described the experience well—visiting the waterfall, walking through Kogi villages in the mountains, and meeting the Mamo—it was the unexpected moments that resonated most. My guide, Yeis, isn’t Kogi but grew up on the mountain and knows everyone there. He learned about medicinal plants from his grandmother. We even asked a young Kogi boy named Bash for help finding the best path to the falls. He was helpful and enjoyed watching people jump from the cliffs into the water. Eventually, he joined us for a swim and savored the delicious pineapple Yeis brought from his farm: Delicious! Speaking of Yeis’s farm, lunch was prepared by his family, and everything, EVERYTHING, came from the farm. We ate, relaxed, and conversed before continuing on to meet the Mamo—an insightful experience. We continued along the river to where it met the sea (or trickled into the sea). The only picture I took was this final point. This means that because I didn’t think to pull out my camera that I was totally in the moment. And that’s exactly what this journey was about.

The two of us were travelling with Juan in the Sierra Nevada. It is quite unique that he has built up a relationship with the Kogui Indians who live there and that is how he can offer these tours. We hardly met anyone on the way. There was also a Mamo with us the whole time, but he said very little. The tour was a nice mix of a hike (but not that long and not particularly hard), lots of explanations about medicinal plants and the Koguis and breaks at the wonderful waterfall or later in a hut. Juan gave us lots of delicious fruit and we found and ate lots of mangos along the way. You don't need to bring your own food! Juan is an exceptionally friendly and charismatic person who made this tour so unique for us with his enthusiasm. Strong recommendation if you want to experience a little adventure in the Sierra Nevada!

A super nice walk with Juan David. He is a guide who knows the area, the medicinal plants and how the indigenous people live very well.